The Tuxedo
Whether your style is classic or vanguard, a tuxedo represents the best formal evening wear, inviting you to become living testimony to a classic dress code that only grows more debonair with time. And yes, there are ways to assemble an elegant tuxedo that allows your own sartorial personality to shine through.
Words by Jennifer Papa
Tuxedo jacket in a black velvet cotton from Loro Piana (€1,590), tuxedo shirt in cotton from Thomas Mason (€190), bow tie in silk (€79).
The anatomy of the tux, also known as a dinner jacket, has evolved over the last century, and despite there being several core ingredients to adhere to, the dinner jacket leaves enough room for personal interpretation. Traditionally the jacket is made in black or midnight blue, but the possibility to play with color and texture offers the wearer a subtle way to stand out. That said, an ivory jacket would only be worn in the summer, aboard ship or in tropical climates. When it comes to the trousers, these are always strictly black or midnight blue, depending on the jacket, never cuffed and feature a thin black satin stripe down the side of each leg. The jacket can be single or double-breasted, with silk-faced peaked lapels or a shawl collar. If the jacket is single-breasted, the cummerbund should be covered by a low-buttoning vest to match. Which brings us to accessories. We recommend a formal shirt in an off-white or ivory color, made of the finest cotton dress fabrics. Traditionally, the shirt features a French spread or wing tip collar, with or without a pleated front or piqué insert. The cuffs, simple or double, are always fastened with formal cufflinks. With pocket-squares, it's hard not to come to the conclusion that flat with defined angles trumps the ruffled approach. As for shoes, a tuxedo is best paired with a pair of highly-polished black oxfords with silk lacing on a soft rounded toe shape.
Tuxedo in a midnight blue Super 130s wool from Loro Piana (€1,490), tuxedo shirt in cotton from Thomas Mason (€190), bow tie in silk (€79).
"Did you know that in several European languages the tuxedo is called a “smoking”. The term actually refers to the Victorian smoking jacket, which is a functional garment English gentlemen wore in the cigar room to protect their clothing from smoke and falling ash."
When choosing the fabric for your tuxedo it’s critical that it respects the formal occasion as well as your personality. The fabric should embody the qualities most suited to formal wear imperatives, comfort and the varying needs of changing weather conditions. At Sartoria Vanni you’ll only find fabrics made of the most precious raw materials and the utmost care and attention to detail, including a range of fabrics for shirts and vest that allow for mixing and matching according to personal taste, as well as option of adding a touch of whimsy to even the most formal occasion.
Tuxedo jacket in a black velvet cotton from Loro Piana (€1,590), tuxedo shirt in cotton from Thomas Mason (€190), bow tie in silk (€79)
Now that you have some guidelines to hold on to we suggest you take the time to invest in an elegant tuxedo that you can make your own for many years, decades even, to come.
